Discovering the Cloister of Paradise in Amalfi
Tucked behind the grand facade of Amalfi Cathedral, the Cloister of Paradise stands as one of the most remarkable yet overlooked architectural treasures on the entire Amalfi Coast. Built in 1266 as a cemetery for the town’s noble families, this serene enclosure of intertwined Arab-Norman arches and lush gardens transports visitors to a time when Amalfi was a powerful maritime republic with deep connections to the Islamic world. The Cloister of Paradise in Amalfi is a hidden architectural gem that deserves a prominent place on any culturally minded traveler’s itinerary.
A Brief History of the Cloister
The cloister, known in Italian as the Chiostro del Paradiso, was commissioned by Archbishop Filippo Augustariccio in the mid-thirteenth century. Its purpose was decidedly practical: it served as a burial ground for Amalfi’s most prominent citizens, including bishops, nobles, and wealthy merchants. In a town where space was always at a premium, wedged as it is between steep cliffs and the sea, an elegant enclosed cemetery attached to the cathedral made both spiritual and spatial sense.
The name “Paradise” was not accidental. In medieval Christian symbolism, the enclosed garden represented the Garden of Eden, a sacred space separated from the chaos of the world. The cloister fulfilled this role beautifully, offering a quiet, contemplative retreat just steps from the bustling piazza outside.
Over the centuries, the cloister fell into disrepair. Earthquakes, floods, and neglect took their toll. Restoration work in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries brought the structure back to life, and today it forms part of the Amalfi Cathedral museum complex, welcoming visitors who seek more than just the cathedral’s famous bronze doors.
The Architecture: Where East Meets West
What makes the Cloister of Paradise genuinely extraordinary is its architecture. The space is defined by a series of 120 slender columns arranged in pairs, supporting graceful pointed arches that intertwine in a pattern distinctly influenced by Arab design. This interlacing of arches creates a visual rhythm that is both hypnotic and harmonious, a hallmark of the Arab-Norman style that flourished in southern Italy during the Middle Ages.
Moorish Influences
The Arab-Norman style visible in the cloister is a direct legacy of Amalfi’s extensive trade relations with the Islamic world. During its golden age as a maritime republic (roughly the ninth through twelfth centuries), Amalfi maintained trading posts across North Africa and the eastern Mediterranean. Merchants, craftsmen, and ideas flowed freely between cultures, and this exchange left a permanent mark on the architecture of the region.
The intertwined arches of the cloister bear a strong resemblance to those found in the great mosques of Cordoba and Palermo, though on a more intimate scale. The use of white marble columns against the warm tones of the surrounding walls creates a luminous quality, especially in the late afternoon when sunlight filters through at a low angle.
The Central Garden
At the center of the cloister lies a small garden planted with palms and Mediterranean shrubs. A sense of tranquility pervades this space, a quality enhanced by the sound of birdsong and the absence of traffic noise. The garden is surrounded on all four sides by the arcaded walkway, creating a perfectly balanced square composition that invites slow, contemplative movement around its perimeter.
Roman sarcophagi and medieval stone fragments are arranged along the walls, adding layers of historical depth. Some of these pieces date back to the second and third centuries, reused by medieval builders who understood the value of fine stone carving even across the span of a millennium.
The Museum Complex and What Else to See
A visit to the Cloister of Paradise is part of a broader tour of the Amalfi Cathedral museum complex, which includes several interconnected spaces worth exploring.
The Basilica of the Crucifix
Adjacent to the cloister is the Basilica of the Crucifix, the original ninth-century cathedral of Amalfi before the larger structure was built alongside it. Inside, you will find frescoes in various states of preservation, medieval altarpieces, and a collection of religious artifacts including silver reliquaries and liturgical vestments. The low, vaulted ceiling and worn stone floors give this space a solemn, ancient atmosphere that contrasts with the more elaborate main cathedral.
The Crypt of Saint Andrew
Below the main altar of the cathedral lies the Crypt of Saint Andrew, where the relics of the Apostle Andrew have been venerated since 1208, when they were brought from Constantinople during the Fourth Crusade. The crypt is a masterpiece of Baroque decoration, with painted ceilings, marble statues, and a central altar holding the saint’s remains. Twice a year, on the feast days of Saint Andrew, the faithful gather here to witness the phenomenon known as the “manna,” a liquid said to form on the relics.
The Cathedral Itself
The main cathedral, with its striking striped facade of black and white marble and its monumental staircase rising from the Piazza del Duomo, deserves its own unhurried visit. The eleventh-century bronze doors were cast in Constantinople, another reminder of Amalfi’s far-reaching connections. Inside, the nave is lined with Baroque decoration that overlays the original Romanesque structure, creating a rich visual tapestry spanning nearly a thousand years.
Visiting Tips and Practical Information
The Cloister of Paradise and museum complex are open daily, though hours vary by season. During the summer months (roughly April through October), the complex is typically open from 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM. Winter hours are shorter, usually closing by 5:00 PM. It is wise to check the current schedule before visiting, as religious celebrations can occasionally alter access times.
- The entry fee for the museum complex is modest and well worth it for the quality of what you will see.
- Early morning or late afternoon visits offer the best light for photography and the fewest crowds.
- Combine your visit with a stroll through Amalfi’s historic paper mills in the Valle dei Mulini, just a short walk inland from the cathedral.
Getting to Amalfi is straightforward. Ferries connect it to Positano, Salerno, and Maiori, while the coastal road (SS163) winds along the cliffs from both directions. For a comfortable, stress-free journey, arranging a private transfer with Positano Style Limo allows you to enjoy the spectacular drive without worrying about parking, which is notoriously limited in Amalfi’s historic center.
A Place That Lingers in Memory
The Cloister of Paradise is not a grand monument that overwhelms with scale. Instead, it captivates through proportion, detail, and atmosphere. It is a place where the mingled influences of East and West, Christianity and Islam, ancient Rome and medieval Amalfi come together in a small, perfectly composed space. For visitors who appreciate the quieter, deeper layers of the Amalfi Coast’s heritage, a visit to this hidden gem behind the cathedral is one of the most rewarding experiences the town has to offer.